If you’ve travelled down the path of becoming a fully dyed in the wool watch enthusiast, chances are that your journey started with a Seiko. And this isn’t just a case of me projecting as I usually do – the brand has captured the market in a way no other was able to, and despite recent price hikes, still manages to offer compelling watches across a widely spanning price spectrum. Just like any other year, 2024 was a busy one for Seiko, with no shortage of all-new models, refreshed colourways, nor region-specific limited editions – with quite a few of those coming our way. With that being the case, and being limited to picking just a top five, I did want to shout out a particularly good vintage tribute in the shape of the Seiko 5 SRPL03 and SRPL05, both faithful nods to Seiko 5s from the 1960s and 1970s.
You’ll generally find models with date complications and a few with power reserve indicators on the dial. There’s also the classic chronograph complication (primarily spotted in the Sport Collection), as well as the GMT complication, which is ideal for those who want to track multiple time zones. The Grand Seiko lineup is divided into five collections that embrace the high standards and philosophy of the brand, using a variety of materials, finishes, complications, and calibers. Inspired by its Japanese artisanal culture of watchmaking and nature in the form of the landscape that surrounds its two studios that divide the creation, innovation, and production of its timepieces. Seiko Prospex is the brand’s sports watch collection, while Seiko Presage is their dress watch collection. However, Seiko is most commonly known for their limited edition timepieces that are highly-sought-after in the watch collecting community.
The Seiko Prospex series includes their professional series of watches such as their diving watches, which are typically ISO 6425 rated from 200 to 1000 metres of water resistance. Seiko released many models under the Seiko 5 sub brand, including large and small divers; watches featuring different strap options, such as leather, nylon, or steel; transparent, or sterile case-back versions; and many other variations. The Elegance models use Grand Seiko’s original and most classical designs, adopting metals like steel or gold.
During the ten years of development at Suwa Seikosha, Seiko managed to create many parts which enabled the viable application of quartz in wristwatches. Some Grand Seiko timepieces also incorporate the company’s Spring Drive movement, a movement that is a combination of both automatic and quartz timekeeping methods, leading to unparalleled accuracy in the world of automatic wristwatches. The most famous example is the SBGA011 Grand Seiko “Snowflake”, housing the 9R Spring Drive movement. GMT watches feature in the Evolution 9, Heritage, Sport, and Elegance Collections, each offering a different design language. The Evolution 9 line-up includes Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph, the 10-beat SLGC001, and a Spring Drive GMT chronograph model.
Since the release of the 44GS in 1967, it has been a tradition for all Grand Seiko models to follow the design codes it introduced, known as the Grand Seiko Style. This collection evolves this grammar of design and pushes its boundaries further by offering more complex finishings, bolder design lines, and even greater attention to detail. Grand Seiko is the premium sibling of the powerhouse watchmaker Seiko, with a singular mission to make the best watches in the world. Functional beauty and design purity are the hallmarks of every Grand Seiko. Casual watches are great for everyday wear and sporty watches have a variety of useful features that come in handy during gym sessions or other physical activities.
Following ISO standards seiko quartz for scuba diving to depths of up to 300 meters, sport this perfectly edgy masterpiece for any adventure you dare to pursue. The Seiko Presage collection combines a Japanese aesthetic with traditional craftsmanship. If you’re looking for a design that’s stripped back, this could be the perfect watch for you. Featuring a minimalistic watch dial, it is said to represent the serenity of the Karesansui Zen gardens in Japan. The brand grew in leaps and bounds through the years, from being the official timer in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics to creating Japan’s first diving watch in 1965.
Since then, many models have been introduced into the lineup, comprising a variety of different styles. Hattori’s shop became increasingly popular due to the rarity of the imported watches the seiko prospex shop was selling, which couldn’t be found anywhere else in Japan. The growing success allowed him to relocate the company to the main street of Ginza (Tokyo), still the epicenter of commerce in Japan to this day. Appropriate care and attention are required, and it is important to understand the characteristics of your Grand Seiko watch and its recommended capabilities. A Grand Seiko may be splash-resistant, 100m water-resistant, or even 200m water-resistant; therefore, you must not expose your watch to water when its crown is in the extended position or not screwed in. Its passion for sharing its learnings in horology has made it a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York, one of the most significant and oldest operating horological associations in the world.